Four Seasons of meat

Four Seasons, 12 Gerrard Street, W1D 5PR

Poor old Chinatown. In some ways, it is a bit like the Aberdeen Angus steakhouses: one of those London institutions that the cognoscenti regard as the sole preserve of the hapless tourist. Unlike the Aberdeen Angus, which must surely be execrable, proponents of this view are probably giving Chinatown a bit of a raw deal. Yes, there might be countless crapholes serving up bright pink goo, but is it not home to the delightful Legends family, including its latest incarnation which showcases the food of Dongbei? What about Little Lamb with its clouds of steam and delicious fishballs? How about the dim sum at Chinatown stalwart, the Joy King Lau? I'd happily spend an afternoon attacking plate after plate of their squid cakes. The posher choices may be over the road in Soho, but the Baozi Inn, in the heart of Chinatown, is still one of my favourite places for a cheap and plentiful late night bunfest. Provided they haven't sold out. 

Granted, there are probably better, cheaper and more authentic places further off the beaten track. The first rule of restaurant geopolitics, which states that the best places are hidden away and known only to a select few, must still apply. However, I love Chinatown because it is central and convenient. How else can I, a North-Easty, meet my dearest friends, mostly South-Westos, without spending half of the night on the London Overground? I guess it's like anything, I wouldn't trust the success of dinner on the imprecations of the myriad touts but even on Gerrard St, the dark heart of touristville, one can find a good feed, if one knows where to look. One such place has to be the Four Seasons.

As I have mentioned in the past, roast meat and steamed greens are my rainy day eats - the stuff I turn to when things are bad or when something truly comforting and delicious is the only thing that will do. Finishing work late and running to meet a friend in town, where better to turn than a slightly dingy basement and one of the most reliable purveyors of pig and duck in this fair city? Fatty pork belly and garlicky greens ahoy! If scorning Chinatown means missing out on this, then call me a tourist.