The Begging Bowl, Peckham

The Begging Bowl, 168 Bellenden Road, SE15 4BW

Meal for two with wine: £60

I expected the Begging Bowl to be a little rough around the edges, more hipster chic than polished, clean design. And yet it is the latter - a gleaming, neighborhood restaurant that wouldn't look out of place in one of London's more obviously gentrified areas. Its bright dining room is lit by a wall-length window leading to a pavement-side glassed in veranda. It's filled (literally - you may have to queue) with a hip, moneyed crowd, drawn by the promise of excellent and authentic Thai food. There are people better qualified than me to judge the cooking's authenticity. But I can confirm that it is excellent.

The fat fishcakes, flecked with green chilies and herbs, are as fantastic as any you'll find in London. Lemon sole with southern Muslim curry is aromatic and rich with coconut, and our fish was perfectly cooked. The sour trout curry is delightfully fishy, although I would have liked a little more mooli as a contrasting texture to the fish. Like the communal tables, the dishes are designed to be shared. The unlimited supply of jasmine and sticky rice is a nice touch, it smacks of a generous hospitality that every restaurant should aspire to. Highly recommended.