Cookbook Challenge #1: eating my inheritance

The Art of Persian Cooking by Forough-es-Saltaneh Hekmat: Doubleday & Co, 1961. ISBN: 0781802415

When my South African grandmother passed away, she left behind a legion of grandchildren who inherited her love of food and her closely-guarded recipe for banana chutney. How we have chosen to apply this legacy varies, from cooking for a psychic vegan and braiing fish caught off the West Coast to the brothers who compete with each other in local potjiekos competitions. 

For me, it was choosing one of her books as the first I would turn to in my challenge to cook something from every cookbook I own.

Her old copy of the Art of Persian Cooking dates back to 1961. Lovingly preserved for fifty years, it is just as interesting as a social history of food in Iran, as it is practically useful as a collection of recipes. Its age is apparent throughout, partly through the old-fashioned didactic language but also, and most tellingly, through the description of the author herself. She is described as a woman born "at a time when the general idea of female education was ridiculous" who went on to stand "unveiled" before her peers at the University of Tehran to collect her Ph.D. in Persian literature; an achievement which her modern counterparts could not hope to replicate. 

Following the book's recipes for the first time, I opted for classic dishes: Qa'meh - a traditional combination of minced lamb, split peas and dried limes;  Iranian buttered rice with a crust; and a (magnificent) cucumber borani.

The cucumber borani was the runaway success of the experiment. Reminiscent of cacik or tzatziki, but a more exotic combination of onion, cucumber, nuts, yoghurt and raisins elevated this beyond this simple staple. The recipe, like many in the book, is slightly imprecise; it relies on the judgement of the cook in successfully determining some quantities. Although less spectacular than the borani, the Qa'meh was pretty special too. The hint of sourness from the limes cut through the fatty richness of the lamb. Again, a little judgement was required: the recipe was more precise but, if followed faithfully, would have led to an overly dry product.  The rice was less successful - it needed more time to develop the proper golden crust - and good bread from our local Turkish supermarket was a better accompaniment in the circumstances.

Here are the best recipes. Raid your local Middle Eastern, or even Turkish, supermarket and give them a go. They are worth the fifty-year wait:

QA'MEH

1 large onion, chopped

4 tablespoons butter or good oil

1 pound ground lamb, veal or beef

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1 cup tomato juice (I used 1.5 cups)

1/2 cup hot water

1/4 pound dried yellow split peas

1/2 cup lime juice or 3 dried limes

1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste

1/4 teaspoon of saffron

Any of the following ingredients:

1/2 pound potatoes, chopped and fried

1 eggplant, peeled and chopped

1/2 pound pitted sour cherries

1/2 pound fresh apples or quinces, chopped and fried

4 ounces dried red (or small white) beans

Sauté the onion in the butter or oil in a deep pot until well browned. Remove onion and drain. In the butter remaining cook the meat, mixed with the pepper an turmeric. Stir well until all ingredients are smoothly mixed. Add tomato juice and hot water and cook, over medium heat, covered, until meat is well done. Add split peas and lime juice or dried limes, and season to taste with salt. Partially cover and simmer over low heat for 45 minutes. Then add the fried onion and any of the other ingredients desired. Again partially cover and simmer until all ingredients are cooked and blended and a rich, colourful gravy rises to the surface. When ready to serve, pour into a serving bowl and top with 1/4 teaspoon saffron mixed with a little hot water. One half teaspoon of clove or curry powder may be added with the turmeric. In this case saffron is not used.

Cucumber borani

Peel and grate 1 large or 2 small cucmbers and mix well with 1 or 2 cups yoghurt. Add 4 tablespoons white raisins, 1/4 cup chopped walnuts, 1 small onions, minced, salt, pepper, and powdered mint. Serve cold.