#Meateasy, Goldsmiths Tavern, 316 New Cross Road, SE14 6AF
Bar Boulud, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA
If I were to open a new bar in London, I imagine that deciding how to set it up would be a fairly swift process:
1) Unexpected location, preferably in something not originally intended to be a bar e.g. shoe shop, hotdog stand or pet shop? Check.
2) Cocktails in jam jars / petrol cans / anything but glasses? Check.
3) Subtle but diverting speakeasy quirks evoking downtrodden decadence of prohibition era? Check.
Even simpler would be the process of designing the menu, for what self-respecting hotspot could overlook that trendiest of food stuffs: the burger. Despite its humble associations, the burger continues to capture London's foodie imagination; with everyone from East London dive bars to the big names in grilled meat jostling for the crown of London's Best Burger. With such great variation between the offerings, comparison is almost impossible. Nonetheless, here goes my take on what makes a good burger: the big hype versus the big name.
Even simpler would be the process of designing the menu, for what self-respecting hotspot could overlook that trendiest of food stuffs: the burger. Despite its humble associations, the burger continues to capture London's foodie imagination; with everyone from East London dive bars to the big names in grilled meat jostling for the crown of London's Best Burger. With such great variation between the offerings, comparison is almost impossible. Nonetheless, here goes my take on what makes a good burger: the big hype versus the big name.
As others have said, if you live in London, chances are you have heard of Meateasy: on Twitter, in the Standard, in the Metro or on one of the many blogs to have paid it a visit. And in amongst those generally glowing reviews are those who have accorded it that highest of accolades: here be the best burgers in London. Everything about the Meateasy is so on trend, it is almost textbook. The walls are papered with literature, the cocktails are indeed in jam jars and the Twitter buzz has been immense, hence the hashtag in the name. I do not intend this to be a slight on the originality of the Meateasy concept, but only as an illustration of an irrefutable fact: if you want zeitgeist, look no further.
Meateasy takes no bookings but instead operates a democratic first-come-first-served queuing system which, because of its popularity, generally results in a wait of at least an hour and sometimes more. Mr Fork and I were eventually able to put the hype to the test: two hunger-busting burgers (him: chilli cheese, me: bacon cheese) and fries, we also opted for onions rings and chicken wings; and spent the rest of the evening eyeing the hot dogs forlornly. Pink-middled, perfectly charred exterior and wonderfully juicy: both burgers were exceptionally good. As well as excellent cooking, the burger architecture on display was particularly skilled, with both burgers standing up to the test of being grabbed and devoured by two starving hands. Fries are unexceptional but onion rings and chicken wings would justify a visit in their own right and may even outshine their beefy companions. The result was carnage, waiting-induced starvation coupled with the excellence of the food left us sat atop a pile of sauce-stained paper plates and kitchen roll in a record time. We duly extracted ourselves from the detritus and slumped our way home.
One of the other big names that frequently crops up in discussions about finding the best patties in town is Bar Boulud, a new opening early last year from Daniel Boulud, owner of several much-lauded restaurants in New York including the three-starred Daniel. Unsurprisingly, given its pedigree, Bar Boulud quickly established a reputation for serving a mean burger in congenial surroundings. I took the rare luxury of a proper lunch break outing last year to test it out.
In contrast with Meateasy, Bar Boulud is an infinitely civilised affair. It is in a smart hotel where, naturally, instead of hovering in a dark corner waiting to grab the next vacated table, you sit at a lovely bar and drink an interesting larger served, not in a jam jar, but in a chilled glass. The décor is tasteful but perhaps a little too muted: neutral colours and comfortable seats give it a slightly corporate feel - it's all a bit beige. As you would expect from a man who has made his name cooking for New Yorkers, Daniel Boulud's burgers are technically excellent. My only complaint would be that the pulled pork in the Piggie Burger was disappointingly un-smoky and did not add what I had hoped to an otherwise delicious burger. The fries are crispy, golden and fluffy perfection.
However, despite it's technical excellence, Bar Boulud misses the mark. The food is great but something about the whole experience is not quite right. It's not their fault, they have done the best possible job with their starting brief but, no matter how much you work at it, proper burgers will never be at home in smart hotels. If you feel as if you should be using your knife and fork rather than getting stuck in with your hands, you know something is wrong. Bar Boulud is charming, smart and slightly impersonal. But a great burger is neither charming nor smart; it is juicy and messy and eating it is a primitive, somewhat visceral experience.
More important than understanding current trends, Meateasy understands this fundamental principle and is, therefore, much closer to burger perfection than its upmarket siblings. As Mr Fork wisely said on the slow trudge home, if these guys can take over a bar and in a few days turn out burgers that good, what are most other restaurants doing? He is right of course, for whilst Bar Boulud isn't perfect, it is very good. What both prove is that it is possible to serve excellent burgers, made with quality ingredients, at both ends of the market. Why then are there still so many pubs and restaurants in London churning out pre-frozen, stale-tasting "burgers", and, even more depressingly, why do we let them?
Meateasy on Urbanspoon:
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| Drink me, I'm ironic! |
Meateasy takes no bookings but instead operates a democratic first-come-first-served queuing system which, because of its popularity, generally results in a wait of at least an hour and sometimes more. Mr Fork and I were eventually able to put the hype to the test: two hunger-busting burgers (him: chilli cheese, me: bacon cheese) and fries, we also opted for onions rings and chicken wings; and spent the rest of the evening eyeing the hot dogs forlornly. Pink-middled, perfectly charred exterior and wonderfully juicy: both burgers were exceptionally good. As well as excellent cooking, the burger architecture on display was particularly skilled, with both burgers standing up to the test of being grabbed and devoured by two starving hands. Fries are unexceptional but onion rings and chicken wings would justify a visit in their own right and may even outshine their beefy companions. The result was carnage, waiting-induced starvation coupled with the excellence of the food left us sat atop a pile of sauce-stained paper plates and kitchen roll in a record time. We duly extracted ourselves from the detritus and slumped our way home.
One of the other big names that frequently crops up in discussions about finding the best patties in town is Bar Boulud, a new opening early last year from Daniel Boulud, owner of several much-lauded restaurants in New York including the three-starred Daniel. Unsurprisingly, given its pedigree, Bar Boulud quickly established a reputation for serving a mean burger in congenial surroundings. I took the rare luxury of a proper lunch break outing last year to test it out.
In contrast with Meateasy, Bar Boulud is an infinitely civilised affair. It is in a smart hotel where, naturally, instead of hovering in a dark corner waiting to grab the next vacated table, you sit at a lovely bar and drink an interesting larger served, not in a jam jar, but in a chilled glass. The décor is tasteful but perhaps a little too muted: neutral colours and comfortable seats give it a slightly corporate feel - it's all a bit beige. As you would expect from a man who has made his name cooking for New Yorkers, Daniel Boulud's burgers are technically excellent. My only complaint would be that the pulled pork in the Piggie Burger was disappointingly un-smoky and did not add what I had hoped to an otherwise delicious burger. The fries are crispy, golden and fluffy perfection.
However, despite it's technical excellence, Bar Boulud misses the mark. The food is great but something about the whole experience is not quite right. It's not their fault, they have done the best possible job with their starting brief but, no matter how much you work at it, proper burgers will never be at home in smart hotels. If you feel as if you should be using your knife and fork rather than getting stuck in with your hands, you know something is wrong. Bar Boulud is charming, smart and slightly impersonal. But a great burger is neither charming nor smart; it is juicy and messy and eating it is a primitive, somewhat visceral experience.
More important than understanding current trends, Meateasy understands this fundamental principle and is, therefore, much closer to burger perfection than its upmarket siblings. As Mr Fork wisely said on the slow trudge home, if these guys can take over a bar and in a few days turn out burgers that good, what are most other restaurants doing? He is right of course, for whilst Bar Boulud isn't perfect, it is very good. What both prove is that it is possible to serve excellent burgers, made with quality ingredients, at both ends of the market. Why then are there still so many pubs and restaurants in London churning out pre-frozen, stale-tasting "burgers", and, even more depressingly, why do we let them?
Meateasy on Urbanspoon:
Bar Boulud on Urbanspoon:
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