Burger Lobster.. Bentley's?

Bentley's, 11 - 15 Swallow Street, W1B 4DG

2 course meal with wine: £55 per person

Trying to get a table at Burger and Lobster on a Friday night was, in retrospect, a terrible idea. Thankfully we phoned ahead or else we would have gone there without knowing that they already more people in the queue than they would be able to accommodate in an evening. That would have been Very Bad. Instead, we drank another bottle of wine and conducted a remote trawl of the surrounding restaurants - what did we do before mobile internet? There was a table at Bentley's, so there we went expecting to have oysters or steak but instead found lobster burgers were the special of the day... result.

In with the new at the Vincent Rooms

The Vincent Rooms, 76 Vincent Square, SW1P 2PD

Two course meal with wine: £25 ish (we split the bill, some people had dessert)

Sometimes, when I want to escape to an imaginary world in which I have won the lottery and can afford a beautiful house in SW1, I go to Vincent Square. It's the perfect place to reflect on just how awesome it would be if I were ludicrously rich. It is quiet, it has a big playing field in the middle and the houses look like the sort of accommodation American film-makers imagine all well-to-do Londoners live in, complete with a Rolls Royce and a butler. Once a year, they even hold the London rum festival in Vincent Square; presumably so the wealthy folk don't have far to roll home. However, until recently, I have been missing out on one of Vincent Square's best attractions: the Vincent Rooms. Attached to the college that trained such luminaries as Jamie Oliver and (ahem) Antony Worrall Thompson, the Vincent Rooms lets one test the abilities of the current batch of chefs-in-waiting, and all at prices a mere mortal can afford. I only wish I had tried it sooner.

Sushi in Soho: Kyoto

Kyoto, 26 Romilly Street, W1D 5AL

Dinner for two (with beer): £50 plus service

It is only the twenty-second of December, but already I feel jaded. It's not a wholly bad feeling, coming as it does from a few weeks of deliberate boozing and eating. However, even the best December sometimes wears thin and an occasional pretence at healthy eating can help to assuage the mince pied excesses of the month. Such was my reasoning when Mr F and I found ourselves in search of supper in Soho. For what could be healthier than sushi?

What would Hideo Nakata think of the Banana Tree?

The Banana Tree, 103 - 109 Wardour Street, W1F 0UQ

Back when the millennium was still young, Mr F and I went through a phase of watching Asian horror films. The early noughties were a bit of a golden age, particularly for Japanese scary movies, and we revelled in the fear for a couple of years until one fateful night in 2004, when we finally got around to watching Dark Water. We enjoyed the film but I was less than impressed by Mr F's subsequent attempt to frighten me by turning on all the taps in the bathroom and hiding behind the shower curtain. Oh how we laughed at that one... once I'd stopped screaming and trying to batter him to death with the shampoo. 

Our thoughts turned to those happy days when we ate at the Banana Tree last week. Not because the Banana Tree is scary or in some way possessed by a supernatural force - although it would be ace if it was. Rather because we remembered how we felt when we saw our favourite films had fallen victim to the West's need for a Hollywood remake. Yet this wasn't the crushing disappointment of a classic butchered by the upstart newcomers, rather this was something a teensy bit edgy rendered mainstream by a sensitive adaptation. 

Favouritism and Great Queen Street

Great Queen Street, 32 Great Queen Street, WC2B 5AA

Meal for two: £70

What is your favourite... surely one of the most irritating questions in the world?

I hate having to reduce my appreciation of something, whether food, music or literature, into such stark terms. Favourite or not-favourite, like good or bad, can never really capture the nuances of how I feel about a thing, a person or a place. And yet... here it is: Great Queen Street is my favourite restaurant in London, if not the world. There, I said it. If you disagree, that is your prerogative, but bear in mind that I will probably question your judgement if you do. Why? Because Great Queen Street is unquestionably marvellous and peerless in its seasonal and simple yet excellent cooking. Because it is affordable and friendly. Lastly, because Mr F took me there for the my birthday when it opened, one of his most thoughtful acts in our pre-married life.

The Diner Diablo: a burger coming of age

The Diner, 18 Ganton Street, W1F 7BU

I was invited to try the Diablo but it would normally set you back £9

It took me ages to wean Mr F off the Diner. It was a source of discord in our otherwise happy home: he liked the Diner, I preferred Byron. Thus, lazy Thursday evenings and hungover Sundays were peppered with disagreement and one of us was doomed to perpetual disappointment. However, in a flash of genius inspired by the Big D, I introduced Mr F to the Byron double burger and the Diner was history. Even with the cute booths, my favourite lager in the world and Blue Oyster Cult on the playlist, the vastly superior meat finally won him over. Result.  Could a preview of their special Halloween burger change my mind? It turns out it could. Watch out Byron, the Diner might finally be about to offer you some competition. It's about time.

Four Seasons of meat

Four Seasons, 12 Gerrard Street, W1D 5PR

Poor old Chinatown. In some ways, it is a bit like the Aberdeen Angus steakhouses: one of those London institutions that the cognoscenti regard as the sole preserve of the hapless tourist. Unlike the Aberdeen Angus, which must surely be execrable, proponents of this view are probably giving Chinatown a bit of a raw deal. Yes, there might be countless crapholes serving up bright pink goo, but is it not home to the delightful Legends family, including its latest incarnation which showcases the food of Dongbei? What about Little Lamb with its clouds of steam and delicious fishballs? How about the dim sum at Chinatown stalwart, the Joy King Lau? I'd happily spend an afternoon attacking plate after plate of their squid cakes. The posher choices may be over the road in Soho, but the Baozi Inn, in the heart of Chinatown, is still one of my favourite places for a cheap and plentiful late night bunfest. Provided they haven't sold out. 

Buen Provecho at the Zoo

Buen Provecho, London Zoo Lates or Lower Marsh Street

3 tacos: £6

There's only a week left to check out London Zoo Lates, the late night opening at London Zoo that sees drunken grown ups overrun an attraction usually reserved for family outings and dance like idiots at a silent disco. If like me, the idea of a looking at animals leaves you cold, then fear not - the delightful people at Eat.St have arranged a street food fantasia to reassure us that not all animals end up in cages. Some are destined for sandwiches.

Defying the weather: ice cream in London

Chin Chin Laboratorists, 49 - 50 Camden Lock Place, NW1 8AF

Tub of ice cream with sauce and one topping: £3.95

Gelupo, 7 Archer St, W1D 7AU

Waffle cones with two scoops: £3

I've called London home for more than five years now, so my expectations for the summer weather are pretty low. I can deal with the stagnant humidity and the near-constant lack of sunshine, if that's what the city demands. However, even with my hard-earned stoicism, this summer has enraged me. I find myself simmering with fury at its dark, cold, rainy skies. Tired of waiting for another brief patch of warm weather, I decided to go and eat ice cream at two of London's finest, hoping to shame the sun into putting its hat on.

After the nitrogen: Chin Chin's creations

da Polpo: it's not you, it's me

da Polpo, 6 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7NA

Meal for two (with 50% off food): £50

For many, da Polpo is all about family. It's the youngest child trying to live up to the awesome foodie legacy of its older siblings. It's not the original (Polpo) nor is it the most iconic (Polpetto). It isn't even the slightly edgy one that your aunt suspects is on drugs (Spuntino). It's the Conrad Hughes Hilton of the Polpo Family. Poor da Polpo,  it must hope for a visit from one of the few people in London who haven't already fallen in love with its sisters. Someone, perhaps, like me. 

It's not that I wasn't keen to go and eat at this infamous family of restaurants before. I just never got round to it. This may have something to do with the queues. I made it up the stairs to Polpetto once but couldn't face the two hour wait. So da Polpo was to be my first encounter with The Family. I was so keen to see what every other right-minded foodie was on about, I even made it there before its official opening.

Giant Robot: nostalgia and meatballs

Giant Robot, 45 Clerkenwell Road, London, EC1M 5RS

Brunch for two: £30

At any one time, there are several new food trends sweeping the capital. Of the current bunch, many seem to have their roots firmly embedded in the United States. Seoul may be the hottest foodie destination on the planet right now but back home, we are looking squarely west for our culinary inspiration. In amongst the promises of authentic, smoky BBQ and the proliferation of NY-inspired hangouts, one humble foodstuff is making a significant dent in the London restaurant scene all by itself: the meatball.  Six months ago, to my enduring shame, I didn't know what a slider was. Now it seems as if they are everywhere. The meatball has been quick and tenacious in its takeover - going from Campbell's tins to cutting edge dining in mere months. Arriving into Kings Cross in time for Sunday brunch, Mr F and I found ourselves cycling past Giant Robot, a fully paid up member of the meatball club, and couldn't pass up the chance to check it out.

Fishballs and dreamboats

Little Lamb, 72 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6NA

Meal for two with beers: £50

Falling in love as drunken student layabouts meant that Mr Fork and I never went on any proper dates. It wasn't until we moved in together and embarked upon the grown up task of making time for each other that we actually started dating; and, despite having been married for more than a year now, it's something we still love to do. I can only assume we are making up for lost time, as if a million good dates will permanently enhance our relationship, leaving behind its cider and balti-fuelled origins.

Typically, now that we are married, we have established certain routines. Date night invariably begins with cocktails and ends with whisky. However, between the boozings, there is always food; and for date night, we usually opt for something fun. When I stumbled across Little Lamb, a Chinese hotpot restaurant that had met with approval from two food bloggers whose judgement I respect, it seemed like the perfect place for our four hundred and sixteenth date. Having enjoyed the obligatory cocktail in a fabulously hip French bar, we made our way down into the basement to spend an evening waging chopstick wars over the choicest morsels left floating in the stock.

Slightly shabby sushi

Toku, 16 Regent Street, SW1Y 4PH

When Mr Fork chose to propose in Tokyo, he did it for two reasons: both fairly romantic but one a little more self-serving than the other. I had been to Tokyo a few months before he asked the question and he knew I had been utterly captivated by its borderline-bonkers charms. He also knew that cementing my recollection of Japan to the happy occasion of becoming engaged would ensure that I would forever be amenable to the idea of visiting one of his favourite places. Sneaky git. What he probably hadn't bargained for was my taking this idea even further, with a kimono-inspired wedding dress that prompted my colleagues to send us off to married life with a gift of vouchers for the Japan Centre.

Oaxacan Celebrations

Wahaca, 66 Chandos Place, WC2N 4HG

Pacifico, mackerel tostadas and lots of lettuce

Standing outside Wahaca in Covent Garden last week, I received some very welcome news. It was a happy moment: they'd seated our table of ten within five minutes, there was a Pacifico Clara on the way inside and, thanks to a brief phone call, a dark cloud that had hung over my professional and personal life was soon to lift. Happy days.

Back inside, all was well: the service was cheery, the food was pleasant but unremarkable, and the company was excellent. However, after an evening of pork tacos, mackerel tostadas and chicken taquitos; the only real highlight was the news at the start. Some chorizo and potato quesadilas almost came close with their crunchy exteriors giving way to a filling reminiscent of fluffy cheese mash; but nothing bested standing outside the restaurant and hearing how things were about to change for the better. It turns out there is more to my life than food. 

Chicken guajillo tostadas - more lettuce

I LOVE black beans

The Big D

Byron, 33 -35 Wellington Street, WC2E 7BN

Why is is that I only ever discover new things after they are no longer cool or just before they disappear? The Big D is a case in point. Three days before the end of February, I tried my first one. Available for one short month every year, tomorrow is the last day they will be on the menu. I had a giant burger two days ago. I am not ready for another one. But if I don't eat a Big D today, I will have to wait 11 months for another or buy my own Big D at O'Shea's (the home of this meaty wonder) and get all pyromaniac on it with an old grill pan and cling film over the smoke detector. The latter might work in the short term but will leave me and the entire contents of my little flat reeking of cow for a good week.

There's only one thing for it: double burger week. Good job I am off to the US next week. It's not like they are any good at making burgers or anything...

Eat a Big D while you can. It is a meaty, juicy marvel.

Three ways with beef

East London Steak Co

Hawksmoor Seven Dials, 11 Langley St, WC2H 9JG

From time to time, I resolve to eat less flesh. This generally occurs when I read something written by a genuinely healthy person about wanting to eat sushi/salad/tofu because they feel fat from eating red meat. This triggers my deep-seated envy of people who actually want to have a well-balanced diet, forcing me to pretend that I too live that way and not, as is the reality, like some pre-historic dinosaur woman, chomping her way through meat-based meal after meat-based meal with no thought for vegetables. That said, eating my way through three different cuts of beef in one weekend was a bold move, even by my standards.

Something fishy

Wright Brothers Soho, 13 Kingly St, W1B 5BW

Meal for two: £65

It is not unusual for a fledgling gourmand to have a favourite restaurant critic, someone who writes in a manner that captures the not-so-secret desires of their fundamentally greedy soul. Last year, Gourmet Chick  wrote about her respect for Marina O'Loughlin. For me, it is all about Jay Rayner: a man who expounds the virtues of lard and generally shuns bland or faffy food and stingy, ungenerous cooks. It is not surprising, therefore, that I wish I had read his review of the new Wright Brothers place in Soho before I chose it as the place to celebrate a good friend's engagement. 

Just as Rayner observed, food was generally good, if occasionally overpriced, but the holes in the service were so big, a colossal squid could have shimmied straight through them. What he criticised in December had not been put right by January. And, as he speculated in his review, we probably lost out for being civilians and not well-known food writers.

Brasserie is Best

Les Deux Salons, 40 - 42 William IV Street, WC2N 4DD

As Christmas approached, the members of the Fork household were preparing to spend Christmas apart. Heathrow weather permitting, Mr F and I had planned to spend the holiday season in separate hemispheres. Naturally, the only proper way to prepare for this prolonged and unseasonal separation was to start eating well (in a truly festive manner) before others had even thought about their first mince pie. Enter Les Deux Salons.

The reliability of dim sum

Joy King Lau, 3 Leicester Street, WC2H 7BL

Lunch for two: £20

There are many reasons to return to a restaurant: it may serve excellent food, be one of those undiscovered gems you feel smug about when the rest of the world starts to appreciate or it may be particularly convenient or reliable for you. The Joy King Lau falls into the latter category of places for me. It is reliable. Located as it is on the edge of Leicester Square, it is even convenient. Describing a restaurant I like as reliable or convenient feels like damnation by faint praise; and yet that is precisely how I would describe several oft-visited places that account for many of my happy food memories. Does that make me a bad person? Or even, and far worse, some sort of anti-foodie?

Our last visit was for a Saturday lunch of dim sum.  Mr F had to work so I offered to take him for lunch to offset the pain of working at the weekend. Starving and desperate after a morning of serious work: a quick, voluminous and low-risk lunch was required.

Lots of other people had conceived a similar plan so, even though Leicester Street was closed, enough people had climbed past the roadworks to make the queue for tables stretched down the stairs and out of the door. This didn't put us off; as seasoned pros, we knew that the man with the walkie talkie would usher us up to the top of the building when he heard there was only two of us.  In your face, polite people who joined the back of the queue!  

The menu is typical of an ordinary Cantonese restaurant. All the dishes you would expect are represented but nothing more. The main event is the dim sum; our one evening visit found the place empty and the food disappointing. However, the dim sum is reliably tasty.

We had roast pork cheung fun which were a bit low on pork but otherwise fine, slightly oversteamed and unremarkable Shanghai-style dumplings and a dish of rice, chicken and sausage that was perfectly pleasant aside from the disappointingly low sausage count (two small pieces - sigh).  The squid cakes were good though: golden and not quite crisp on the outside and chewy in a good way on the inside. Scallop dumplings were a highlight (of sorts) with a pleasantly crunchy texture to the filling. We washed it all down, as everyone does at the joy King Lau, with the simple Chinese tea that is presented unbidden on arrival.

It's not just about the food here though. I think people come back for its happy combination of reliably good dim sum, low prices, central location and lively atmosphere.  The Joy King Lau is typical of many Chinese restaurants in the area: it is located over several floors of an old house, perpetually noisy and fantastically cheap. However, unlike many other restaurants in the area, the service is pleasant at the same time as being brisk and the food is always good value. 

I am not alone in my fondness for the Joy King Lau. According to a civil servant friend who works on our relationship with China, it is the lunchtime restaurant of choice amongst staff at the Chinese Embassy in London.  That probably says enough. Vindication over.

Revolutionary fervour achieves desired result!

Ba Shan, 24 Romilly Street, W1D 5AH

Meal for two with a couple of beers: £50

Back from a week-long conference in tourist-trap-hell, I was overcome by the need to immerse myself in London.  What better way than trying a restaurant with a re-invigorated take on Chinese cooking, showcasing the cooking of Sichaun's less-renowned neighbour: Hunan?

Ba Shan is the middle sister of three. The newest of the family, it positions itself somewhere between the smart but pricey Sichuan at Bar Shu and the cheap, cheerful and plentiful street fare of the Baozi Inn. Fuchsia Dunlop, food writer and alumnus of the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine in Chengdu, provides advice to all three. And in the case of Ba Shan, she has also played a role in the recent redefinition of the restaurant. Ba Shan originally specialised in "small-eats", which received a lukewarm reaction from critics and bloggers alike. This reputation for average food at above average prices effectively deterred me from visiting until I saw the news that Ba Shan was launching a new menu incorporating food from Hunan. I knew the time had come to give it a chance.

There was little evidence of tapas-style dishes on the menu, a page of dumplings at the back is all that remains of its former aspirations. Instead, they have developed an expansive menu drawing on the cuisines of Sichuan and Hunan, including some offerings from Dunlop's books on the subject. 

We started with Hunanese Four Treasures. Clean, crisp vegetables and peanuts with a lively dressing were a good way to prepare our palates for the spiciness that we knew would follow.  Alongside the treasures, a plate of crispy beef and onion was intriguing. Oddly reminiscent of old fashioned English cuisine, the beef was fabulously frazzled, the onions slightly softened and served in a light, spicy sauce that complemented rather than masked the flavours of the main ingredients.

After a short pause, the mains arrived. They were spectacular.  A giant platter of fish topped with chillies and submerged in broth and chilli oil was perfect: meltingly soft fish, lots of chillies and a spicy but somehow also quite subtle broth. Naturally, it was hot but done in a way so that the heat did not overpower the gentler flavours of fish and ginger. It was the sort of dish that makes you think about returning with all of your friends so that they too can experience its awesomeness.  

Hand-torn cabbage in vinegar was also nicely done with simple flavours which acted as a welcome accompaniment to the other, intensely flavoured, dishes on offer. We were flagging a little by the time the final dish arrived: Chairman Mao's red-braised pork. Full of treasures and fish, we lamented my tendency to over order. Not for long though. Coronary-inducing levels of fat in the chunks of pork belly, held together by a dark sauce flavoured with star anise. Comfort food of the highest order. Our inner-revolutionaries were sated.

We left trying to decide whether what we had just eaten was merely the best Chinese meal we had eaten recently or whether Ba Shan was already on the way to becoming our new all-time favourite Chinese restaurant. High praise indeed.

The food of Hunan has eluded London diners in recent years, so the redefined Ba Shan is a welcome addition to the city's restaurant scene. Ba Shan has also managed to do something quite rare in London. It serves excellent Chinese regional cuisine without the slightly aggressive service and dingy environment that we often accept as normal in this fair city. I am immensely fond of our dingy cafes - a price we often pay for authenticity - but at Ba Shan excellent authentic and reasonably-priced Chinese cooking is served in a stylish environment and in a way that has the potential to appeal to the mainstream, not just hardened foodies and Chinese students. That can only be a good thing.